Farwell, Hari

Our houseowner, Mr. Banojee Rao, has spared few expenses trying to make us feel comfortable here in our new home of Secunderabad. The flat is well furnished and includes many nice new appliances. He is making a living as a local area general building contractor - both for himself through the development of area residential real estate as well as in the large and sprawling defense "cantonment" area. The cantonment is a term taken from the 200 years or so of British rule (ending in 1947) in which British military garrisons established regional defense stations that were close to but not integrated with the local population. The cantonment included the usual military accouterments - airstrips, barracks, training grounds, etc - but also all support and services including things like officer housing, depots and stores, churches, golf courses, and of course polo grounds. We were able to visit the bungalow that Sir Winston Churchill resided in during the 1880's while he was stationed here during the Raj while keeping an eye on the Nizam rulers of the old city of Hyderabad.

One of Mr. Rao's kind gestures to his new tenants from the US are the constant "check-ups" from one of his assistant's, Hari. Hari is in his mid-twenties and hails from the city of Kakanida on the eastern shores of Andhra Pradesh - this is about a 12-hour train ride from our home. Hari's visits are random - he might show up at seven in the morning or at seven in the evening - it's anyone's guess. Hari is introverted by nature, but like most Indians he is curious about the fair-headed children we have brought with us on this adventure (who are these kids?!?). He'll spend hours playing with Evan or Eli, and both have quickly come to accept him as part of our extended Indian family. This is saying a lot for Evan, who is particularly choosy about whom he lets into his inner sanctum (which for him means simply who might be allowed to talk, or even look at him!).


Hari was our guide during our trip to the old city - the part of Hyderabad which Winston Churchill said "contains all the scoundrels in Asia". Most Indians have advised us to be cautious in the old city as tensions can flare quickly and without much notice (the source of this tension is still debatable depending on who you talk to. It does seem to be based mostly on some mistrust between Muslims and Hindus, but there is also possibly some outside influence from Pakistan). The Mecca Masid, which we visited with Hari, was the source of a terrorist attack in April of this year, and the recent coordinated nearby city blasts during August continue to keep tensions elevated. Of course I take a scientific approach to this and assess the risk in terms of percentages (OK, so I am being influenced by the gun/swimming pool chapter of Freakenomics - thanks Josh!). I am fairly certain that I am taking more risk in the rickshaw ride into Hyderabad than of terrorist attacks. Still, there is some fear - logical or not.

Hari took us into the city and showed us the sites. He helped carry Evan from time to time (again, he is only one of few who is allowed to carry Evan) and he has become our good friend. Hari's English is OK (he seems much better at understanding us) but it's way better than my Telagu (the local language of Andhra Pradesh). I can only say things like "hello!" ("Ella Unaru") and "How are you doing?" ("Baagunaaraa") He helped us navigate the endless bangle and pearl bazaars and took us on a special pilgimage to the Birla Mandir Temple - a gorgeous white marble temple built into the side of a rocky hilltop overlooking the Hussain Sagar - Hyderabad's famous lake. It is dedicated to the Hindu Lord Venkateshwara and was packed with pilgrims.

But Hari was being called back to Kakanata by his parents. We're not sure why, but there was a touching departure when Hari came to bid us farewell. He sat on the couch looking down and Evan and Eli wanted to bond with him - perhaps they sensed the separation. We were all sad - there was something just really cool about what we all had experienced together - and then Hari went home.