Kerala is famous for its natural beauty and more specifically the extensive network of "backwaters" which weave through the central coastal areas of the state. These sometimes narrow channels interconnect larger lakes and rivers and are the lifeblood to this primarily agrarian community. The natural scenery is breathtaking - with palm lined canals backdropped by huge expanses of rice paddies and colorful birds populating various environmental niches. Perhaps the neatest feature of the backwaters are the Keralites themselves and the manner in which they live. Small huts are fixed onto long and narrow spits of land or sometimes islands, no more than 15 feet across. Life is spent mostly on the water, either fishing or tending to the rice paddies, and the waterways are the only form of transportation. Long, narrow boats with elegantly upturned ends dot the waterways, mostly propelled by long bamboo punting tended by one or two people. Some have an additional sail attached to a very short mast while the remaining few have loud and smelly small outboard motors.
It's a simple but beautiful life which we got to observe from the luxury of our houseboat - the most popular way of visiting the backwater region. Houseboats in Kerala have the hull design of a rice barge, but everything above the main deck has been rehabilitated into a luxury home - including electric lights and running water in bedrooms and bathrooms. The most important part of the houseboat is the main seating area which is open on the sides but covered by wicker thatch and bamboo from the hot sun. There are comfortable chairs and couches, and even a ceiling fan! The idea is to let the experience just float by, and that we did.
We arrived in Allepuzza from Varkala at about noontime, and after haggling over prices and inspecting a few different boats we were off on our 24 hour adventure. The boat comes complete with three crewmember who drive the boat and serve freshly made food throughout the day. At a few times the experience almost became trancelike - the boat slowly drifting through small island villages in the still air while the sounds of daily life (Keralites speak a derivative of Sanskrit called Malayalam) could be heard.We parked for a quiet night along a narrow dike abutting some rice paddies and went exploring before it rained. What a great experience.
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