The trip out of Ooty to Mysore consisted of only one option - a steeply descending narrow road consisting of 36 precarious switchbacks - elegant, scenic, and terrifying. We decided on booking the "short bus" (how après po), a twenty-seater that would conveniently pick us up at our hotel in Ooty. After hoisting up our luggage to be strapped onto the roof we settled in for what would only begin as a calm and organized trip out of the Nilgiri range. The bus groaned and creaked around the hilly lanes of Ooty for another two hours, collecting more and more passengers who actively negotiated standing-room fares with the driver. Finally, with the mini bus packed to the gills with people and luggage our circuitous departure to Mysore would begin.
After arriving in Mysore we hired a driver to take us to Chumndi Hill, which looms over the city of and is one of Karnataka's more auspicious places. It is here where accirdung to lore, the multi-limbed goddess Durga (one of the many incarnations of Parvati, wife of Shiva) slayed a powerful demon. She is frequently depicted riding atop the back of a tiger, freeing the people from his powerful grip. This action positioned her as one of the patron gods of the royal family - making Mysore the seat of Dussera festivitites in southern India. The ten day celebration culminates with a lavish procession from the gates of the Maharaja's Palace through the city, complete with a golden "howdah" (a traditional covered throne carried on the back of an elephant), costumed performers depicting gods and demons of India, ornately painted elephants covered with rich tapestries, as well as floats depicting various aspects of traditional and contemporary Indian life.
We met up in Mysore with Paul Amstutz, one of the eight US Fulbright Teachers in India who is on assignment in Bangalore. Paul and his wife Karen also have a yound family with them and it was fun to share our unique experiences of travling with kids. They are from Yosemite, California where Karen works as a Park Ranger. They have three girls - Liza - 9, Sylvie - 6, and Lupin - 3. Paul has the most foreign travel experience of all the Fulbrighters, having worked as a trekking guide in Nepal for many years as well as leading a few excursions into Pakistan and the surrounding mountain areas.Mysore turned out to be eye-candy. More on that in Part 2...
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